Yes, clean the carb.
- take the carb off: Take off the side panels.Take pics of it as is for easier reassmbly.
Note all vac lines - mark them if you need.
May as well put in a new air filter too. take off the air cleaner box (rather large unit above cvt, round air filter is inside, longer tube leads around to carb intake. Several bolts hold the air cleaner unit in place to engine/mounts. Get a long phillips for the 3 screws holding the back half of the air box. Note the small U-tube that leads air to the cvt.
It's pretty self explanitory once you take a look at it, but getting a service manual is smart.
Or..without taking off the air cleaner
: Note all vac lines - mark them if you need.
Unhook the bystarter connections (2 leads). Unhook all vac lines on carb you marked
Loosen the clamps at each end of the carb.
* One end is clamped to the air in , the other end is clamped to a hard rubber manifold (manifold is a stubby rubber tube/piece with a vac line coming of it). The manifold fits/clamped into the engine intake.
You just need to loosen and open the clamps holding the front (in) and back (out) of the carb. Then wiggle out the carb being careful not to stress/crack the manifold.Carb off, all vac lines marked:
- take the bowl half off (the carb bowl screws strip easily - be careful and replace with better screws upon reassmbly).
- take out any good rubber/gaskets and save...or... replace with new gaskets (better option - so order a new gasket kit
- carefully remove bystarter (choke) (has 2 small wires)
- you will see the float needle and seat, and plastic float (be careful with these, don't lose anything).
- You'll see the jets as well, these unscrew in and out essentially.
- Get a can of Berrymans carb cleaner, maybe also some very thin guitar wire (to run through very clogged jet holes/passages).
- With all important parts and rubber/gaskets removed...clean away while being careful. Get into any and all passages. clean out the jets.
- put on new bystarter, new gaskets, and reassemble
If it was in need of cleaning, you notice inscreased power, response, smoother idle better operation overall.Other stuff while you're at it?...
- new air filter
- new vac line tubing (fuel needs fuel compatible tubing, normal air needs reg vac tubing).
- How about the cvt? - new belt, new roller weights, scuff the clutch shoes up a bit to get them to grip nicely (or get new ones if they're too worn down, inc. the 3 small clutch springs), lightly circle sand the INSIDE of the clutch bell a bit. Spray away any and all signs of grease while working in there off the belt and pulley faces with brake or belt cleaner.
- Oil change?
- some electrical contact cleaner for most/all connections?
- Coolant change. 50/50 mix of regular prestone works (green).
I need to remove my carb and install a new electric choke, which I just recently found new on ebay.
I have never removed any carb, any tips appreciated.
I am also thinking I should clean the carb since its 22 years old. I have never cleaned a carb and I was just wondering if its less of a PITA to buy one of these for $49.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CARBURET ... Q7c66Q3a2Q
Alternatively, do I need one of these kits? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-CA ... 05Q7c66Q3a
2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2 ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem250309008137QQitemZ25030900813 7
Also, while I have got the carb off, can you think of any other deferred maintenance that I should consider. I just got the scooter a few months ago. It only has 6000 miles on it. I put on new tires, a new plug, new battery, and changed the oil and coolant. It ran well until recently and then was very hard to start. I am %90 sure the problem was the original auto choke, which I found a replacement for and will install once I figure out how to remove the carb. Its my guess that its the auto choke because once it got started it idled and ran great from idle to full out.
Any tips, thoughts, greatly appreciated.